Plastic V-seal can be cut with scissors, but you’ll need aviation snips to cut metal V-seal, which comes in copper, aluminum, bronze, and stainless steel. It’s known as tension-seal weather stripping because the V-shape springs open, creating tension between the sash and window frame that blocks the passage of air. Spring V-Seal: This is a resilient polypropylene plastic or metal strip that comes folded into a V-shape. Also look for foam-filled tubular gaskets that have a spongy-foam core, which holds its shape better than the hollow-core gaskets. Some tubular gaskets have peel-and-stick adhesive backing, while others have an attached metal or wood flange that must be secured with nails or screws. When compressed by the sash, the tubular weather stripping conforms to the space, effectively sealing out drafts. Tubular rubber-gasket weather stripping: This is similar to adhesive-backed foam, except that it’s formed into a hollow rubber tube instead of dense foam. On sliding or casement windows, apply the adhesive-backed foam to the vertical edge of the sash or vertically along the side jamb. Either way, once the sash is closed and locked, the foam will seal out drafts. If you don’t want to apply the weather stripping to the sash, stick it to the sill directly below the lower sash, and to the head jamb above the upper sash. On double-hung windows, apply adhesive-backed foam weather stripping to the bottom edge of the lower sash, and to the top edge of the upper sash. Just be sure to thoroughly clean the area around the inside of the window, as the adhesive won’t stick to dusty, dirty surfaces. It features easy peel-and-stick application and cuts with scissors. (The sashes are the movable parts of a window that open and close.) There are dozens of different styles of weather stripping available for sealing windows, but these are top five types:Īdhesive-backed foam: This is a compression type of weather stripping, meaning that when the window closes against it, the foam compresses to seal gaps and block drafts. Weather StrippingĪfter caulking around the outside of the window, move inside and use weather stripping to seal around the sash. Note, however, that 100% silicone must be cleaned up with mineral spirits siliconized caulk can be cleaned with water. Both adhere well and will remain flexible for years. I recommend either 100% silicone sealant or a “ siliconized” acrylic caulk. And be sure to use an exterior-grade caulk. Next, apply a fresh bead of caulk around the outside perimeter of the window, creating a continuous wind-blocking seal between the window frame and siding, or between the window frame and exterior trim boards. Then, wipe the surface dry with an old towel. Once you’ve removed all the old caulk and peeling paint, clean away all dirt and dust using a scrub brush dipped in warm, soapy water. And if the beveled end becomes dull or damaged, you can always sharpen it with a bench grinder. This specialty tool has stiff, beveled scraping blade and pointed tip that’s great for raking hardened caulk out of narrow cracks and crevices. You could use a regular metal putty knife to scrape the surface clean, but a much better option is a 6-in-1 painter’s tool. At 3.9 pounds this space heater works well on your desk or below it.īegin by scraping off any old caulk or peeling paint from around the exterior perimeter of the window.
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